Zagori in winter: snow, stone villages and what to know before you go
The stone villages of Epirus in the snow: where to stay, what is open, how to drive safely and what not to do in winter.
- Winter in the villages is very cold and it sometimes snows, especially December to February.
- Monodendri is the practical base; the road to Papingo is cut off by snow more often.
- A car with chains or winter tyres is essential, and there are no petrol stations inside Zagori.
If you plan a winter trip to Zagori, base yourself in Monodendri or Tsepelovo, book ahead, rent a car with winter tyres and fill up in Ioannina. Check the snow forecast before heading up the mountain roads.
What is Zagori like in winter?
Zagori (Zagorochoria) is an area of 46 stone villages in the Epirus mountains of north-west Greece, north of Ioannina. Twenty of the villages became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2023. In winter it is one of the Greeks' own favourite mountain destinations: snow on the stone roofs, fires in the guesthouses, and the Vikos Gorge viewpoints at their most dramatic.
Zagori weather in winter
There is no official station in the villages, so the nearest figures are for Ioannina (485 m). The villages sit higher, at roughly 700 to 1,000 m, so they are colder.
| Month | Min (°C) | Max (°C) | Rain days |
|---|---|---|---|
| November | 5 | 16 | 14 |
| December | 1 | 11 | 15 |
| January | -1 | 9 | 13 |
| February | 2 | 12 | 12 |
| March | 4 | 15 | 13 |
*Source: Climates to Travel, Ioannina. Expect lower temperatures and snow on cold days in the villages.*
Which village is best in winter?
- Monodendri: the most practical winter base. Close to the Oxya and Beloi viewpoints over the Vikos Gorge, and 20 to 30 minutes from Kipi, Vitsa, Dilofo and Kapesovo.
- Tsepelovo: quiet and good value, and a good alternative to Papingo in winter.
- Papingo (Megalo and Mikro): the prettiest and most popular villages, but the road is cut off by snow more often.
What to do in Zagori in winter
- Vikos Gorge viewpoints: Oxya viewpoint is about 10 minutes from Monodendri. The gorge is about 900 m deep.
- Stone bridges: the area has dozens of arched stone bridges, such as Plakidas (1814), Kokkoris and Misiou. The short loop around Kipi works in winter when paths are dry.
- Agia Paraskevi monastery: about 800 m from Monodendri's square, on the edge of the gorge.
- An evening by the fire: much of the experience is a hot meal and a fireplace in your guesthouse.
What not to do in winter: the high trails, such as Astraka and Drakolimni, are closed. The full Vikos Gorge crossing (12 to 14 km) is not advisable without a local guide and a check of conditions.
How to get to Zagori in winter
- From Israel: there is no direct flight to Ioannina. Fly to Athens, then take a domestic flight of about 45 minutes to Ioannina, or drive about 5 hours.
- From Thessaloniki: about 3 hours 15 minutes by car on the Egnatia motorway.
- Within Zagori: a car is essential. Ioannina airport to Monodendri is about 45 minutes.
Important winter driving tips
- Snow chains or winter tyres: required on mountain roads when it snows. Ask the rental company in advance.
- Fuel: there are no petrol stations inside Zagori. Fill up in Ioannina or Kalpaki.
- Book ahead: some guesthouses close in winter, and places fill up over the Greek holidays (Christmas, New Year).
- Kosher food: there is no kosher food or Chabad house in Zagori. Ioannina has a historic Romaniote synagogue. For kosher food, see Shabbat times & kosher in Greece.
More on the area: the Zagori guide and Ioannina.
FAQ
Does it snow in Zagori? Yes, it sometimes snows in the villages in winter, especially from December to February. Snowfall varies from year to year, so check the forecast before you go.
Which village is the best winter base? Monodendri, because it is close to the Vikos Gorge viewpoints and other villages, and relatively easy to reach. Papingo is beautiful, but its road is cut off by snow more often.
Can you walk the Vikos Gorge in winter? The viewpoints are open all year. The full gorge crossing is long and demanding, and in winter it is best done only with a local guide in good conditions.
Do you need a car in Zagori? Yes. Public transport to the villages is very limited, and in winter a car with chains or winter tyres is the only practical way to get around.
